Truite au lard

Go for a walk in the Auvergne and you will never be far from the sound of running water. Its mountains form a huge rainwater catchment area, with the result that springs seem to gush from every crevice. Farmers cunningly divert the water that tumbles down streams into rigoles, mini-canals no more than a foot or so wide which run almost horizontally along the top of steep fields and, through seepage, irrigate the pasture below before rejoining the stream farther down.

The stre