Poaching - in the sense of shooting or fishing out of season rather than on somebody else’s property - is second nature to many Auvergnats, particularly those of the male gender. Or perhaps it would be more accurate to say ‘was’: that most highly prized quarry of poachers, crayfish, has almost completely vanished from Auvergne streams and rivers in the past ten years. Local farmers claim they have been wiped out by an American-imported disease. But it is more likely that their environment h