An interesting and tasty combination of cheap ingredients, if rather time-consuming to make. It dates from the days when time was a cheap commodity when other things were scarce. Eugen Weber, in Peasants into Frenchmen (Chatto & Windus, 1977), quotes the case of a woman who ‘would walk from her village to the market, 35 kilometres each way, to sell her dozen eggs at 14 sous rather than 12’. Something of the same attitude persists even today in France’s infinitely