The first time I set eyes on tripoux was in a Paris charcuterie many years ago, before I moved to the Auvergne: a heap of little greyish bundles sat on a large dish with chunks of orange-brown aspic clinging to them. What were they? The charcutier, who had bought them directly from a small manufacturer in the Aveyron, told me they were made from strips of calf’s and sheep’s tripe and a little ham, all tied up into a packet and cooked for six or seven hours in a broth fl