French country hotels in general, and more especially in the Auvergne, are very tolerant places. They do not just put up with small children, they welcome them, even when trendily lax parents allow them to shatter the eardrums of other diners or career about among the tables and waiting staff, sometimes causing dishes to fly. Special high chairs are produced for the toddlers, who in many cases are allowed to eat the same food as the adults. And if they do not, they can often enjoy a special