On the steep banks of the river Lot in the southern Cantal, just 6 kilometres from Mourjou as the crow flies, and on the arid causses (calcareous plateaux) in the Aveyron and Lot départements, numerous flocks of goats supply milk for a local goat cheese called Cabécou, a little 30g disc of soft, barely salted cheese. Every spring the goat flocks are swollen by a cohort of surplus kids, which the cheese makers sell to butchers in April and May, thus usefully supplementin