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By Peter Graham
Published 1999
Wandering through Villefranche-de-Rouergue market one spring morning I came across a bent old lady selling bunches of what she called ‘asperges sauvages’. As I was keen to sample a new vegetable, I bought a bunch (‘Just boil them and eat them with a vinaigrette,’ she advised). A little later that morning I was assailed by other market-goers who had spotted what I was holding in my hand and urgently wanted to know where I had bought my responchons, as they called them. W