Cornets de Murat

My first experience of cornets de Murat was, aptly enough, in the small town of Murat, which nestles below the north-eastern flank of the extinct volcanoes that make up the Parc Régional des Volcans du Cantal. We had dropped our bags at the Hôtel des Messageries, one of those large old-fashioned hotels which, like the Hôtel de la Poste in Massiac, seem to sail imperturbably down the decades, and decided to take pot luck for lunch before taking a wal