Intensively grown Golden Delicious, picked before they are ripe and still green when they go on sale, have flooded the British market. This has prompted some people to jump gleefully to the conclusion that all French apples are lousy. This is quite simply not true. While the range of varieties offered by most greengrocers is relatively small - though consumers have recently been won over by the excellent New Zealand variety, Royal Gala - there is a wealth of old and little-known varieties i