This recipe for a chestnut and potimarron charlotte with a quince coulis was given to me by Jean-Pierre Courchinoux, of the Auberge Fleurie in Montsalvy, 23 kilometres from Mourjou. It won the cookery competition at Mourjou’s 1994 Foire de la Châtaigne (Chestnut Festival). I include it not only because it offers a delicious and finely tuned combination of autumnal ingredients (chestnut, potimarron — a small and flavoursome variety of pumpkin called onio