Anyone who likes crisp-fried bacon or pork fat (I insist on the word ‘crisp’, having once tasted and almost thrown up that British speciality, pork scratchings — sludgy, greasy and preservative-packed bits of inferior pork fat) will adore the complex and subtle flavour of these brioches. They make an excellent, unaggressive accompaniment for a wine-tasting. Curiously, a very similar, more scone-like pastry called töpörtyüs pogacsa is widely eaten in Hungary.