Anyone who has picked blackberries from a sun-drenched bank of brambles will have noticed the distinctive fragrance that the plant gives off when it bakes in the sun - a fragrance reminiscent, in a way, of the bouquet of certain oaky Rioja red wines. That fragrance is magically, almost alchemically captured in this apéritif made from young bramble tips, the recipe for which was given to me by a Mourjou man, Théodore Carrière. The tips should be harvested in the sprin