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By Jereme Leung
Published 2010
Kou mo is a mushroom unique to Dongbei, the rugged north of China that is famed for its countryside ingredients. This inexpensive mushroom grows in the mountains in Jilin. One of our assistant managers in Beijing was from Jilin, and told me her family would gather the mushrooms and eat them stewed with chicken stock. After her holidays, she would bring back bags of mushrooms to Beijing. In the restaurant, we use these mushrooms in a consommé with truffle dumplings—the earthiness of t