In dim sum cookery, there are two types of dough—oil-based dough and water-based dough. This recipe calls for the latter, and it’s almost identical to the dough that Muslim noodle vendors in Beijing use. Making the water-based dough is similar to that of making hand-pulled noodles; its a lengthy process of repetitive pulling and folding, which yields thin, fluffy, melt-in-your-mouth pastry strands. You can also roll the dough out with a pasta machine, but the dough won’t be as long and thin as desired. The hand-pulling technique is not easy to grasp, but the end results are worth the effort.