Fish Quenelles and Mushroom Soup

At noontime in Thailand, everyone stops and flocks to the little food shops or patronizes the food vendors who pull or pedal their carts along the lanes; each time they stop, collecting a crowd of eager, hungry customers. Gaeng Chud Look Cheen, with variations, is among the most frequently ordered soups during these lunchtime breaks.

Fish quenelles (usually labeled “fish balls") can be found in Oriental markets, either in cans or packets. They can easily be made at home by po