Thai Silk

The name Foi Tong means literally “strings of gold.” The little spools of egg threads are each piled into a wai, a narrow pyramid, resembling the hands put together for the traditional Thai greeting. Practice makes perfect with the egg-thread technique. I have seen a Thai cook deftly trickle the egg threads into perfect skeins, arranging them in smooth little cushions with the aid of chopsticks. The first time I tried it, mine looked like bird’s nests assembled by an absentmin