The folded flatbread that defines a city. This recipe belongs to my other nonna, Peppina. She lived with us, but by the time I was born she could no longer speak or move after a stroke. Still, her presence filled the house, and her love was felt in silence. Scaccia is Ragusa’s most iconic dish, found in every bakery and home, with countless mostly vegetarian fillings from tomato and cheese, to aubergine/eggplant and tomato, spinach and garlic, or ricotta and broad/fava bean