Horseradish Agliata

Agliata is a savory, garlic- and breadcrumb-based condiment popular in the region of Liguria on Italy’s northwestern coast. This version, which includes an additional kick of horseradish and the rounded flavor of thrice-blanched garlic, is based on a sauce for beef ravioli that I’ve had on my menus for years. At home, I often use it on short ribs and baked oysters; it’s my go-to whenever I’m looking for an assertive flavor.