15: Watermelon Pith Jam

I literally spent my childhood emptying the tiny tins of this jam in bulk. I used to eat it by the spoonful. In the 1980s, when things were fairly ok in the Middle East, watermelon pith jam in tins was widely imported into Saudi Arabia from Iraq, where it originated. It was extremely popular – so much so that it was part of everyday breakfasts and brunches, often served with soft creamy cheese or labneh, sandwiched in samooli bread.

But trading ties took a turn after the Gulf