Hyderabadi Spring Lamb Biryani

What makes this dish so special is that, unlike most biryanis, the lamb and rice are cooked together from the start. First, though, the lamb is marinated for several hours, the green papaya and yoghurt being natural tenderisers. It is essential, too, that you use the best, leanest, youngest meat. Mutton dressed as lamb will not do.

It’s best to marinate the lamb overnight in the refrigerator and then cook it the next day. Make sure, however, that you have everything ready to hand be