I couldn’t help but include two hot chocolates here, both Rococo favourites. The Simple hot chocolate is a gloriously rich – yet deceptively easy to make – treat, a million miles away from the water cocoa I was given at school. Hot Chocolate a l’ancienne is a little fancier and refined: the recipe is attributed to Rosa Cannabich, a pupil of Mozart. Mozart himself was reputed to have tasted the chocolate at Mannheim in 1778. It is wonderfully unctuous, almost a meal in itself.