This hearty pizza is the antithesis of the minimalist designer pizzas so popular in the United States today. It’s the brainchild of my exuberant friend Tatyana Bogomazova, a St. Petersburg ethnographer. Tanya starting making pizza in the early 1990s, when kitchen appliances finally made their way into Russia and she became the proud owner of a bread machine. As Tanya explains it, she found the bread machine incongruous for Russia, where it’s easy enough to buy excellent bread. So she started using the machine to make enriched dough for pirozhki and pizzas. The machine freed up an hour of her busy day yet enabled her to serve a freshly baked pie for dinner. Tanya’s toppings change with her mood, but she especially likes sardines, or the smoky ham suggested here.