Egg Toddy

The word gogol’-mogol’ sounds as funny in Russian as it does in English. It’s a whimsical name thought up to entice children to drink this nourishing, egg-rich custard as fortification against colds and other ailments, but many children need no enticement at all. This recipe has been handed down through my mother’s family under the name of “guggle-muggle,” an even stranger appellation.