In Tbilisi, many restaurants cater to the Georgians’ love for this rich cheese pie. On Tbilisi’s main thoroughfare there is a café that can be reached only by descending a steep flight of stairs into a subterranean room. In spite of its windowless location, the cafe shimmers with an abundance of gilded mirrors and polished marble walls and floors. The khachapuri there are served hot from the oven, and they’re a good
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