Quails are birds that you really need to get your fingers on to appreciate. They are obviously small, with bones that are sometimes annoying, but they are juicy and tasty when cooked properly. The rule of thumb is never to overcook them. If you can buy them boned out, then use those; if you can only find whole birds, then simply prepare them as follows.

Place them, one at a time, in the palm of your hand, breast side down. You’ll have the quail’s backbone facing up to you, running f