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Published 2014
Can’t be doing a chapter about fish and leave cockles out. This is clearly more of my East Coast heritage coming out, but when it comes to shellfish at least, the only way is Essex... all the way down to Old Leigh on the banks of the Thames Estuary. There are few finer ways to spend a summer evening than supping fine ale at the Crooked Billet on the quay while partaking of freshly caught shellfish from the adjacent kiosk. And cockles and mussels are, of course, good for you: they’re one of
