Braised Fillets of Wild Striped Bass with Cockles and Norman Butter

The briny liquid released by cockles or clams as they cook is one of the divine substances of the kitchen. Use it as the base for fish sauces and no one will fail to be seduced by their intense sea-like flavor. To gild the lily, as it were, whisk French butter into the shellfish cooking liquid, grind in a little pepper, and serve. Don’t ever use bottled clam juice, which has a coarse, aggressive flavor nothing like the fresh version.

In France, you’re more likely to see this treatme