This home-style French dish is a model of simple, natural cooking, in which the braising liquid is served along with the cold beef. The dish can also be prepared in the same way using white wine instead of red; it is then called boeuf à la bourgeoise.
In rustic preparations of this dish, the carrots and onions used in the braising are returned to the gelée and constitute part of the garniture for the finished dish. In a restaurant, a new set of carrots and sometimes onions (pearl onions are most attractive) are simmered in the degreased braising liquid and used as the garniture.
|garlic cloves, chopped|
|onions, chopped coarsely|
|large bouquet garni|
|boneless rump roast|
|veal foot, split and halved crosswise (
|salt and pepper||to taste||to taste|
|carrots, sliced crosswise|
A larded and braised piece of beef assembled in a terrine with its natural gelée and aromatic garniture can be used as a model for an almost infinite variety of cold meat terrines and hures. The gelée can be flavored with wine, which can be added at the beginning of the braising or at the very end during the final flavoring of the gelée.
In a traditional boeuf mode, carrots and onions constitute the principal garnitures, but obviously these can be modified according to season, location, and occasion. A southern French or California version might be garnished with tomatoes (peeled, seeded, and salted to remove excess moisture), fennel (cut into wedges and precooked in braising liquid or stock), garlic cloves (peeled and poached), or wild mushrooms, for example.
The gelée almost always benefits from a generous quantity of freshly chopped herbs added while it is cooling. Parsley works beautifully, but chervil, tarragon, or a combination of classic fines herbes also works well.
Copyright © 2017 by James Peterson. Published by Houghton Mifflin Harcourt Publishing Company. All rights reserved.