This bourride comes from Sète, in the south of France along the western end of the Mediterranean coast. It is prepared by poaching fish in a nage made with aromatic vegetables and herbs. Once the fish is cooked, the poaching liquid is then strained and whisked into an aïoli, which lightly binds it and contributes to its flavor. This is a model for finishing fish poaching liquid with mayonnaise. Any of the classic mayonnaises in this chapter can be used, as well as improvised mayonnaises using different oils and flavorings for new variations.
Bourride sétoise, often made with monkfish (baudroie), may also include the puréed monkfish liver, a delicacy somewhat like foie gras from the sea. If you’re using the liver, purée it with about the same volume of the nage and work the mixture through a drum sieve or large strainer. You can stabilize the mixture with 0.5% propylene glycol alginate in the court-bouillon (nage) and/or 2% liquid lecithin to the mayonnaise.
Fennel adds an ineffable freshness to stocks. Because the fennel isn’t eaten in the finished dish, you can use the branches and fronds and save the bulbs for something else. (Whenever you use fennel bulbs in other recipes, it’s worth saving the branches in the freezer for stocks.)
|whole monkfish tails,
|onion, coarsely chopped|
|large bouquet garni, with
|liquid lecithin (if using the liver)|
|propylene glycol alginate (if using the liver)|
|egg yolks (optional)|
|french bread (large round or fat loaf)|
|salt and pepper||to taste||to taste|
The seafood used in a bourride is not limited to the traditional monkfish. Virtually any flavorful fish or other seafood can be used. If using fish that provide bones (monkfish only has the central vertebrae), it’s possible to make a fish broth rather than a nage using the same ingredients as above but also adding the fish bones.
It is especially exciting to use seafood, such as scallops, with coral or roe that can be used in the sauce. If you encounter coral while shucking fresh scallops, integrate it into the mayonnaise (work it through a drum sieve first) as you would the monkfish liver above. Poach the scallops in the nage and transfer them to hot soup plates. Spoon over the sauce.
Copyright © 2017 by James Peterson. Published by Houghton Mifflin Harcourt Publishing Company. All rights reserved.