Lovage-flavored Taillerins

Wild celery is among the most important herbs of Savoie country food. The Swiss put lovage in Maggi seasoning, which every one of my Swiss friends sprinkles generously on whatever is served at any meal. I use Maggi seasoning, reinforcing its taste with a bit of celery seeds. If you have no lovage, you can use a mixture of parsley and celery leaves finely chopped. This is a modem use of old ideas. Maggi seasoning is available in most supermarkets or, if not, in gourmet food stores.