Bugs with Garlic and Pepper

Pauline Nguyen: I was first introduced to balmain bugs (the crustacean) when I was supporting myself through university as a waiter at the Balmain Bug (the restaurant). In my naïvety I believed that the chef, a local, went out every morning to catch these strange creatures fresh from Balmain’s waters. My admiration for the man grew incrementally when I noticed his signature catch appearing on the menu of many