Luke Nguyen: My mother used to cook this dish for the family at least once a week. One of my duties as a child was to lay sheets of newspaper on the floor in front of the stove to catch any oil splatter. In my Vietnamese squatting position, I would get sidetracked by the newspaper articles and then be told to hurry up with a flick behind the ear from Mum as the oil got hotter.
Mum’s preferred fish is sil