Luke Nguyen: I particularly enjoy this soup for the texture of the tapioca noodles. Made from tapioca starch, the noodles are deliciously chewy and sticky, and translucent in appearance — another noodle cannot be substituted. Dried tapioca sticks are also available, but always go for fresh tapioca noodles.
Eating your way around the pork hock can be something of an art — don’t try to use your chopsticks