Lovage is a perennial herb with a pronounced celery flavour. Use it sparingly to enhance the flavour of soups, stews and stocks.
Melt the butter in a heavy-bottomed saucepan. When it foams, add the potatoes, onions, celery and lovage; toss in the butter until evenly coated. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper. Cover with a paper lid (to keep in the steam) and the saucepan lid and sweat over a gentle heat for 10 minutes approx., until the vegetables are soft but not coloured. Add the chicken stock and simmer until the celery is fully cooked, 10–12 minutes approx. Liquidise the soup; add
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