First make the sauce. Put the egg yolks in a heavy stainless steel saucepan on a very low heat, or in a bowl over hot water. Add water and whisk thoroughly. Add the butter bit by bit, whisking all the time. As soon as one piece melts, add the next piece. The mixture will gradually thicken, but if it shows signs of becoming too thick or slightly ‘scrambling’, remove from the heat immediately and add a little cold water if necessary. Do not leave the pan or stop whisking until the sauce is made. Finally add the lemon juice to taste. If the sauce is slow to thicken it may be because you are excessively cautious and the heat is too low. Increase the heat slowly and continue to whisk until the sauce thickens to coating consistency. Pour into a bowl and keep warm.
Melt the small amount of butter and toss the tiny dice of cucumber in it for 1–2 minutes. Add to the Hollandaise sauce.
Pour boiling water over the tomatoes, count to ten, pour off the water and peel. Cut in half and remove the seeds with a teaspoon or melon baller, and cut the flesh into the same size dice as the cucumber. Sprinkle with salt, freshly ground pepper and sugar and keep aside.
Just before serving, bring the
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