Spicy Mussels with Herbs and feta Cheese

This dish certainly isn’t slow in the traditional sense if you prepare it the way they do in Thrace— quickly in a skillet with hot peppers, garlic, and butter. It is this last ingredient that “only a wacky Thracian” would add. And it is possible to take a slow approach with excellent results.

In this adapted recipe, a variation on the famous Macedonian mussels saganaki, the mussels are partially prepared in the morning not merely to remove the sand, shells, and beards but als