If there’s a fish dish that says “Cook me long and slow,” this is the one. Gentle, leisurely long cooking allows squid (or the more authentic cuttlefish) to spread its sweet flavor and reduces chewiness. Cuttlefish is the ingredient of choice here. Its sweeter flesh goes particularly well with fennel and sorrel. Imported frozen cuttlefish are very large; one can serve four people. Squid should either be cooked very quickly or very slowly. Long slow cooking will give you an especially delicious result.
While my Cretan friend Mirsini Lampraki picks sorrel in the hills above Heraklion, I pick it from a box on my terrace. If you don’t grow your own sorrel, you’ll probably find it at your local farmers’ market in season.
The Slow Mediterranean Kitchen by Paula Wolfert. Copyright © 2003 by Paula Wolfert. Photographs copyright © by Christopher Hirsheimer. Published by Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. All rights reserved.