Pork and Orange-Flavored Beans

The extent of regional Greek cooking was unknown to American readers in the 1980s. Now it is better known and being well studied. Last year my friend the Greek food writer Aglaia Kremezi and I traveled together to one of her favorite islands, Chios, in the northern Aegean, famous for its mastic gum, ouzo, olives, and delicious citrus-based spoon sweets.

Aglaia wanted me to taste some of the dishes that would appear in her book The Foods of the Greek Islands. Once again we fel