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Published 2003
On the Tunisian island of Djerba, an amphora-shaped unglazed terracotta pot called a gargoulette is stuffed with fish or meat, saffron, herbs, olive oil, and vegetables, then left in the embers that warm the water at the bathhouse to cook slowly while the women bathe. The cook brings the pot home, her husband hacks off the top and the handles, then she pours the food into a ceramic bowl to serve. The flavor of food cooked in clay is special. Of course, the pot, being broken, is disca