In Greece, beef, veal, venison, or rabbit would be the meat of choice here—first marinated in vinegar and then gently stewed until fork-tender. I break a cardinal rule and substitute meaty lamb shoulder, which my Greek friends have told me is incorrect. Well, it works for me. I don't marinate the meat but do brown it thoroughly before stewing. And I enhance it with plenty of allspice berries, which lend an aromatic taste to the sauce.
As with so many slow-cooked dishes, this stew is always more luscious if prepared a day in advance. Serve the dish hot, along with a big loaf of crusty bread.
The Slow Mediterranean Kitchen by Paula Wolfert. Copyright © 2003 by Paula Wolfert. Photographs copyright © by Christopher Hirsheimer. Published by Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. All rights reserved.