Here's a humble home winter dish you'll never find in a tourist-oriented Moroccan restaurant, though you might find it in a Moroccan workingman's café, or sold off a stand in the Djemaa el Fna in Marrakech.
It employs khelea, a form of preserved meat used throughout the Maghreb as a condiment. Cubes of preserved lamb or beef add bursts of flavor to numerous North African winter dishes.
Velvet-textured cooked Swiss chard goes beautifully with the spicy meat and brown lentils. This trio makes for a delicious rendition of lentils and greens, a dish you'll find prepared in numerous ways around the Mediterranean.
Khelea can be salty, so be sure to wash it well. In some parts of northern Morocco, especially in the Rif mountains where they prefer it salty, a handful of young borage leaves, believed to have diuretic properties, is added to this dish.
The Slow Mediterranean Kitchen by Paula Wolfert. Copyright © 2003 by Paula Wolfert. Photographs copyright © by Christopher Hirsheimer. Published by Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. All rights reserved.