I must thank French chef-owner Jean-Charles Baron of the restaurant Toile à Beurre in Ancenis for sharing his method of reducing green grapes to a thick syrup and using it in place of sugar to endow the creamy custard with a subtle grapey flavor.
Additional green grapes are sautéed to bring up their flavor by light caramelization, then cooled and tumbled into a partially baked tart shell. I like to use fruity Thompson seedless, light Chasselas, or aromatic Muscat grapes. All these varieties are available at one time or another during the year, which means you can make this delicious tart right up to Christmas.
The Slow Mediterranean Kitchen by Paula Wolfert. Copyright © 2003 by Paula Wolfert. Photographs copyright © by Christopher Hirsheimer. Published by Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. All rights reserved.