Armenian Candied Bitter Orange Rind

A couple of years ago, I drove with my Turkish friend Ayfer to a town called Vakif in the foothills of the Musa Dagh, a gorgeous, old-world citrus growing region just a few miles from the Mediterranean. No signs showed us the way. Ayfer had to stop frequently to ask directions. But when we finally arrived she became enormously excited, for Vakif is a pure Armenian Christian village, one of the very few still remaining in Turkey.

Our hostess was Surpuhi Karfun, a strong, slim, shy yo