Three Tunisian Harissas

Tunisia is the only Mediterranean country whose hot sauces can be measured on a seismic counter! When the Ottoman Turks returned from the East, they brought back Goan red pepper, which they distributed throughout their empire. From the Balkans to North Africa, wherever pepper seeds grew well, the resulting red pepper powders—both hot and sweet— became famous: the paprika of Hungary; the bouhka of northern Greece; the flavorful red pepper of Aleppo in Syria; the Maras of southeastern