Potato and Leek Soup

A well-remembered childhood treat was being taken to the old Ritz-Carlton for lunch. Carefully dressed in a pale green wool dress that almost matched the carpet, I was led down a short flight of stairs to a large table. It was a warm spring day and I was served a smooth, creamy, ivory-colored soup sprinkled with green in a two-handled consommé cup. I lifted a round spoonful of the soup to my mouth. Cold and delicious, it slid down comfortingly. This was, of course, Louis Diat’s famous inven