Alberto Ciarla is the chef-proprietor of an extraordinary fish restaurant in Rome’s Trastevere. He has done lots of research on old Roman recipes and is a connoisseur of Italian wine. While there is a jazzy dining room, I much prefer one of the tiny tables set behind some shrubs on the street.
At Ciarla’s, the soup is much richer and more elegant, containing as it does a rock lobster; but this is still good eating. It is so
