Fresh Horseradish

This is more work than the preceding sauce, but I make it every year when it is time to dig the horseradish. There is a special bite to fresh horseradish that is addictive. The Poles often simply sliver peeled horseradish—a vegetable peeler is the best way—and sprinkle the slivers on the hot meat or even into the broth, which may have a tarragon dumpling or two in it.