Paella from Valencia

This delicious dish has been responsible for some of the harshest criticism of Spanish food that I have heard. So much so, that I even titled one article I wrote ‘Beyond the Paella’. The paella of the much-deserved criticism, though, has little or nothing to do with the dish that is the only one with any right to bear the name, and which is made in the garden of Valencia. The best paella I have ever eaten was made one Sunday by a Valencian friend of mine, Tinuco, in a tiny vil