In the little town of Alella, north of Barcelona, there is a pastry shop in the main square where I could spend hours gazing through the window at the sweet and savoury cocas.
Mix 100ml (3½fl oz) of water, the sugar and yeast and leave for about 10 minutes until a frothy head forms. Mix the flour, salt, yeast mixture, oil and lard, and add just enough of the remaining water to