This is a dish that I first made at the original Sugar Club in Wellington, and it’s still one of Ashley and Viv’s favourites. Pickling was something my grandmother got me interested in as a kid. Years later, as I began to eat at Japanese restaurants, I realised the role that pickles play in their cuisine as an aid to digestion and a stomach teaser. The pickles here are best made at least one week in advance and will keep for several months in the fridge.